Okaru

Florence Fabricant

Marc Spitzer, who has been the executive chef of the BondSt restaurants for more than 20 years, has opened a restaurant in the village of Roslyn, in Nassau County. With a real estate investor, Noam Shemel, he is putting a creative, sometimes Western spin on Japanese ingredients with dishes like a duck confit salad with blood orange miso and pickled Tokyo turnips, sake-braised short ribs, red miso lamb chops with yuzu potato gratin, and cribbed from his menus at BondSt, bigeye tuna tarts. Chocolate and shiitake dust complicate an espresso martini. (Thurs- day)